A Mummified Monk, a Mango Smoothie, and the Subtle Magic of Koh Samui

It’s an odd thing, realizing that some of my favorite travel moments began with a raised eyebrow, a touch of morbid curiosity, and the stubborn persistence of a rental scooter. Koh Samui is often pictured as all palm-fringed beaches and turquoise water—Chaweng Beach’s endless parties, Lamai’s gentle surf, the sun-warmed hush of Maenam. But if you steer away from the coast and into the island’s leafy heart, you’ll find a little temple that offers something you might not expect: a mummified monk, perched serenely in a glass case, sunglasses and all.

The Unmistakable Calm of Wat Khunaram

I first heard about Wat Khunaram from a German backpacker over breakfast—she whispered about “the monk who never decays,” making him sound like a Southeast Asian Dracula. The reality is both stranger and, in a way, deeply moving.

You can search for it on Google Maps by typing: Wat Khunaram

Set along the ring road between Lamai and Hua Thanon, Wat Khunaram is a working temple, with saffron-robed monks tending to daily rituals as dogs nap in the shade. The main hall is pleasant but unassuming, dwarfed by the big Buddha statues you’ll find at Wat Phra Yai (“Big Buddha Temple,” which you can also locate by searching: Wat Phra Yai). But step just inside, and there sits the reason people come: the preserved body of Luang Pho Daeng, a monk who reportedly meditated himself into death in 1973 and—depending on whom you ask—either through spiritual discipline or a quirk of the local climate, never quite decayed.

He’s propped up in the lotus position, skin dark and leathery, his eyes covered with Ray-Ban-style sunglasses that lend him a quiet, almost rakish dignity. And here’s the twist: it’s not macabre at all. There’s incense in the air, the faint buzz of ceiling fans, and a sense of reverence that’s hard to articulate. Locals come to pray, to light candles, to leave garlands—some even bring children, teaching them about impermanence in the gentlest possible way.

Why a Mummified Monk?

It’s easy, as a foreigner, to approach something like this with a twinge of discomfort. But in Thai Buddhist tradition, Luang Pho Daeng’s body is a lesson in mindfulness—a physical reminder of life’s impermanence and the ideals of non-attachment. In the West, we tuck away reminders of mortality behind closed doors, but here, the boundaries are more porous. I found myself thinking of how, in both cultures, we seek meaning in what we leave behind—whether in a legacy, a family recipe, or the gentle smile of a monk in a glass case.

Tips for Visiting

• Dress respectfully: Shoulders and knees covered. Wat Khunaram is a spiritual site, not a tourist spectacle. You may borrow a sarong at the entrance if you’ve arrived in shorts.
• Bring small change: Donations are appreciated, and you can light incense or leave a lotus flower as a gesture.
• Come early or late: The midday sun is brutal, and the tour buses arrive in force around 10 a.m. or 3 p.m. I found the peace of early morning most memorable.
• Photography: Photos are permitted, but keep it low-key—this is a place of worship, after all.
• Combine with nearby sites: Afterward, it’s a short ride south to the Secret Buddha Garden (“Tarnim Magic Garden”; search for Secret Buddha Garden on Google Maps), a hillside sculpture park that feels like something out of a Miyazaki film.

A Taste of Samui Nearby

Nothing grounds an encounter with existential impermanence quite like lunch. I suggest stopping at Krua Chao Baan in Lamai (search for Krua Chao Baan on Google Maps), a breezy beachfront spot where grilled fish and green mango salad taste sharper for your newfound perspective. Or, if you’re in the mood for something sweet, look for a roadside stall selling mango sticky rice—proof, if you ever needed it, that life’s pleasures are fleeting but worth savoring.

Reflections Under the Palm Trees

Wat Khunaram’s mummified monk is, for all his stillness, a quietly radical presence. He asks nothing, expects nothing, simply sits—reminding us of the strange beauty in endings, and the possibility of grace in letting go. As I zipped away on my scooter, I thought about how every culture finds its own way to grapple with the inevitable. Some build cathedrals, some carve tombs, some preserve a serene monk in Ray-Bans for generations to come.

And if the best travel stories are the ones that gently unsettle you, then Koh Samui’s mummified monk—equal parts mystery, history, and humanity—deserves a place near the top.

Getting There:
Wat Khunaram is about a 20-minute drive from Chaweng Beach or 10 minutes from Lamai Beach. Scooters are widely available to rent, but taxis or songthaews (shared pickup trucks) are also an option.

Other Sights in the Area:
– Lamai Beach: Search for Lamai Beach on Google Maps.
– Hin Ta and Hin Yai Rocks (Grandfather and Grandmother Rocks): Search for Hin Ta and Hin Yai Rocks on Google Maps.
– Big Buddha Temple (Wat Phra Yai): Search for Wat Phra Yai on Google Maps.

If you visit, take your time. Let the strangeness settle into something quietly profound. And if you find yourself reflecting on life, death, or the merits of mango smoothies—well, you’re not alone.