I Found a Hidden Temple With No Tourists: Koh Samui’s Quiet Marvel

There are two kinds of travelers in Koh Samui. The first kind seeks the postcard: sun-bleached sand, turquoise water, a coconut in hand at Chaweng Beach. The second—the kind I like to think of myself as belonging to—wonders what lies behind the postcard. Somewhere, behind the neon-lit beach bars and the Instagrammable waterfalls, there must still be a corner of the island where time lingers, and the only sound is the soft shuffle of your own feet.

This is the story of Wat Sila Ngu—The Red Temple—hidden in plain sight, yet blissfully deserted.

The Lure of the Obvious (And Why I Veered Away)

Most guides to Koh Samui will direct you to Wat Plai Laem or the imposing Big Buddha Temple (search for “Wat Phra Yai” on Google Maps). These places are impressive, certainly, but their serenity is often punctuated by the click of selfie sticks and the drone of minivans. I had seen them; they were beautiful, but not quite the silent sanctum I craved.

So, after a morning of mango sticky rice at The Cliff Bar & Grill (search for “The Cliff Bar & Grill Koh Samui”), I took a left turn down a dusty lane, following a tip from a local shopkeeper who spoke of a “red temple by the sea, no tourists go there.” In Thailand, directions are often delivered with a smile and a cryptic wave, but that is half the adventure.

First Glimpse: Wat Sila Ngu

You can search for it on Google Maps by typing: Wat Sila Ngu.

There it was, just south of Lamai Beach, perched on a bluff overlooking the Gulf of Thailand. Its proper name is Wat Ratchathammaram, but locals call it Wat Sila Ngu—Temple of the Stone Snake. The temple is built of deep red laterite, glowing like embers against the ever-present green of coconut palms. I arrived late morning. There was not a soul in sight, save for a monk watering lilies.

A Temple Woven from Stories

The temple’s façade is a tapestry of Buddhist tales, carved in elaborate relief. Dragons coil and monks meditate across the walls. The main hall is small, its crimson interior bathed in the kind of light that makes you whisper, even if you’re alone.

The legend goes that the temple’s “stone snake” motif comes from an old Buddhist parable—a reminder that wisdom sometimes slithers in quietly, in unexpected forms. I found myself thinking about how, in travel as in life, the treasures are rarely in the places everyone talks about. They’re tucked away, waiting for the patient and the curious.

Moments of Stillness

I sat on the low wall by the sea and watched a fisherman’s boat drift lazily across the bay. Here, the only ceremony was the slow unfurling of waves and the distant clatter of temple bells. There were no guides, no trinket stalls, just the soft presence of the place itself.

It’s worth noting that modest dress is appreciated—cover your shoulders and knees, as you would in any Thai temple. There’s no entrance fee, but a small donation in the box by the door is a simple way to show respect.

How to Get There

Wat Sila Ngu is just off the ring road (Route 4169). If you’re coming from Lamai Beach (search for “Lamai Beach” on Google Maps), it’s a short ten-minute scooter ride south. You’ll see the red towers rising above the trees—an unusual color for a Thai temple and hard to miss once you know what you’re looking for. Parking is ample and free.

Nearby: A Taste of Samui’s Everyday

If you’re hungry after your visit, consider stopping at Imchai Restaurant (search for “Imchai Restaurant Lamai”), a simple spot favored by locals for its spicy curries and excellent fried rice. The menu is as unpretentious as the crowd—this is not fusion, this is fuel. If the midday heat is getting to you, the shaded stretch of Hua Thanon Beach (search for “Hua Thanon Beach”) is perfect for a quick swim.

Reflections: Why Seek the Hidden?

Travel, at its best, is a gentle conversation with the unfamiliar. Wat Sila Ngu is not grand, nor is it ancient. But in its quiet corners and unhurried air, I found a rare kind of luxury: the feeling that I was discovering, not just consuming. Sometimes, the most profound encounters are the ones nobody told you to look for.

So if you find yourself in Koh Samui, take the detour. Seek out the red temple by the sea. Your postcard will wait patiently—but the hidden places, as always, are calling.

Tips for Visiting Wat Sila Ngu:
– Dress modestly: Shoulders and knees covered.
– Bring water: There’s little shade at midday.
– Arrive early or late: For the best light and emptiness.
– Respect the silence: This is a working temple, not a tourist attraction.

Happy wandering—may you always find your own red temple.